Polarise, Peru Part One

  I lean in the doorway looking out on the plaza, whilst two guitarists dressed in square whites pluck away at a delicate saga, their voices wailing hauntingly beautiful. A woman approaches, walking in a waltz, smiling at me as she passes singing along. I smile back, a genuine smile, …

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Only Sundays, Ecuador Part 2

From Zumbahua, I was heading straight to the heart of Ecuador, ‘El Corazon’.  The trail rising up away from town, a thin strip of sandy brown and the only disruption in the airy wide-open paramo; its smooth hills of pampa.  Lama and sheep graze on the wind-swept grasses, their thick …

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